The 300 Winchester Magnum Project

300 Winchester Magnum Project: Practical Long Range Hunter


This is the introduction to a series covering my latest long range hunting build: A 300 Winchester Magnum.

This series will serve as a platform to share with you the techniques that I use for successful long range hunting. In it, I’ll chronicle the entire process; from choosing the components of the rifle to using it to fill tags. We’ll look at load development, trajectory validation, and realistic field practice. This first installment will cover why I chose a 300 Winchester Magnum and some of the build details of the rifle.

Why a 300 Winchester Magnum when there are more powerful, more efficient long range chamberings available?
260, 300WM, 338Edge comparison pic

From left to right: 260 Remington/140 gr. Berger HVLD, 300 Win Mag/200 gr. Hornady ELD-X, 338 Edge +P/ 300 gr. SMK

I consider the 300 Winchester Magnum to be a middle-of-the-road long range hunting round. It lacks the horsepower of the big 338s, but brings more to the table than my favorite 6.5 MM. With a heavy barrel and efficient muzzle brake, recoil should be light.  This is a major consideration, as I plan to use this rifle for my 11-year-old son’s formal long range training.

During the planning phase, I found myself oscillating between the popular 7 Rem Mag and the 300 Win Mag, but opted for the .30 caliber due to the heavier bullets available. All other things being equal, bigger is better for long range hunting. With bullets in the 200-grain class and a projected 2800 to 2900 fps muzzle velocity, they should work well in the 300 to 800 yard bracket I find myself hunting in most frequently. Components such as brass and bullets are generally available and plentiful.

Long barrel life seems to be a winning trait of the 300 Winchester Magnum. That’s an important factor when considering the volume of fire I have planned for it.

The rifle is built on a Remington 700 action. Originally chambered in 300 Weatherby Magnum, it came from Remington’s Custom Shop as an Alaskan Wilderness Rifle.

The receiver was square and the bolt fit well. Other than pinning a Holland’s recoil lug to it and cleaning up the bolt lugs, we left the action alone. I added a Jewell trigger and set it to break at 1 ½ pounds.

I used a Broughton 1-10” twist barrel with a “Heavy Varmint Sporter” contour.I couldn’t decide between the portability of a 26” barrel and the velocity advantage of a 28”, so I split the difference and finished it at 27”. At just under six pounds, this barrel contour keeps the weight of the rifle balanced and helps manage recoil. I don’t know much about the reamer we used, other than a friend of mine had a barrel chambered with it that shot very well. Initial testing shows that at least one popular long range bullet won’t be able to reach the lands if loaded to magazine length. We threaded the barrel for a Jim See Blast Tamer muzzle brake.

One of my goals for this build was to copy the aesthetics and handling characteristics of my favorite 260 Remington.
Defensive Edge 260 Remington

I wanted the 300 Winchester Magnum (front) to closely match my favorite 260 Remington (rear).

To accomplish that, I ordered a McMillan A-3 stock, inletted for Surgeon’s DBM bottom metal. The marble swirl finish color is 40% olive, 30% tan, and 30% black. Because this rifle will be used by a few different sized shooters, the stock needed to be adjustable. McMillan added their adjustable butt plate spacer system, setting it up for a 12” to 13 ½” length of pull. It also has their clamp bar adjustable cheek piece, which adjusts for height, as well as cant.  I really like this set up so far, and will probably order another one like it for my competition rifle build this summer. After making sure the bottom metal and barreled action fit perfectly in the A-3, it was bedded with Marine-Tex.

McMillan A-3 Adjustable Stock

McMillan A-3 adjustable stock finished in 40% olive, 30% tan, and 30% black.

Riding on top is the new Nightforce ATACR 5-25×56 Enhanced.

Mounted in Nightforce’s six-screw Ultralight rings on top of a 40 MOA rail, this combination allows 102 MOA of up travel from zero. That’s more than enough to reach the end of the 300 Winchester Magnum’s effective range. The ATACR has a second focal plane MOAR-T reticle. To keep everything on the level and ambidextrous, a Defensive Edge ring cap ACD rounds out the package. ***UPDATE*** For my review on the Nightforce ATACR 5-25×56 Enhanced, click HERE.

Nightforce 5-25x56 Enhanced ATACR On 300 Winchester Magnum Project

Nightforce 5-25×56 Enhanced ATACR

Defensive Edge ACD / Nightforce UL Rings

Defensive Edge ACD with Nightforce Ultralight rings

Stay tuned for more on this build, with initial load development strategies and techniques coming up next.

 

 

 

 

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Sam

As an Idaho native, avid hunter, and long range shooter, Sam has written numerous articles and gear reviews for various online publications. Specializing in long range hunting in the mountains of northern Idaho, Sam founded Panhandle Precision as a way to continue sharing his passions.

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15 Comments

  • Steve
    February 22, 2016 at 18:26

    Thanks Sam for starting this article, look forward to the rest!

  • JP811931
    March 2, 2016 at 06:28

    I must say thats a very nice rig…..on my 300WM build based off a tikka t3 varmint + aluminum MDT chassis and a vortex razor gen 2 scope recoil is likena 243…

  • Todd B
    October 25, 2016 at 06:49

    Very nice rifle! What did the overall weight end up on that rig?

    Did you end up using H1000 with the 210 VLD? (I think I read you used the 210 gr VLD in a article that brought me to this one)

    • Sam
      Sam Millard
      November 7, 2016 at 20:25

      The loaded weight with bipod is just over 15 pounds. My final load is 77.5 H1000 with the Berger 210 Hunting VLD @ 2950 fps.

  • Jeremiah Johnson
    December 4, 2016 at 11:01

    Good stuff! I’ve learned a large portion of reloading/shooting from your articles and videos. I’ve slowly been working on my factory rem 700 300 WM and though it’s not near what you have I’ve been able to develop a 215 gr Berger that it shoots very well out to 500. Ive mimicked your reloading style, from your videos, and although I’m new at this, it has really paid off. So far I’ve worked up to 74 grains of h1000 with my bullet sitting 64 thou off the lands (max I can go with the factory bottom metal). I ordered a ptg bottom metal dm so I can work with my seating depth and loads this winter. Thank you for all this info.

  • Shawn
    January 9, 2017 at 10:26

    Tell me more about the action. Remignton i assume, but when you say it was pretty square, does that mean you didnt touch the threads, bolt face and receiver face?

    Thanks.

    • Sam
      Sam Millard
      January 9, 2017 at 11:39

      That’s right. We looked at the contact pattern on the original recoil lug and decided not to touch it unless we needed to. With the way it’s shooting, I think we made the right call. The action is a Rem 700 that was originally a Remington Custom Shop AWR in 300 Wthby.

  • Carl Snyder
    December 24, 2018 at 05:01

    Great stuff Sam!

  • Paul Price
    April 4, 2019 at 19:40

    Sam,

    I have been reading some on the .300 winney. I am considering one for long range hunting and F class. From what I’ve read a setup like your rifle should be the ticket. One thing I was concerned about is being able to use the 210-230 range bullets and still be able to have them fit and function well with a magazine. Any thoughts?

    • Sam
      Sam Millard
      April 5, 2019 at 03:58

      I’m running 210 VLDs at 3.548″ COAL. Functions perfectly through a factory AI magazine.

  • Steve
    July 4, 2019 at 17:13

    For the 300 Win you used a 1-10 twist, will going with a faster twist be of any advantage?

  • Ervin F See
    November 28, 2020 at 12:13

    Okay, I have decided I want to shoot a Hornady 200 GR ELD-X in my 300 Win Mag but I haven’t a clue of what powder or primer to use to duplicate the factory load. I have had great luck with this bullet and satisfied with the groups at 300 yards. Does anyone know what the proper combination of powder and primer should be.

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