Reloading Redding T-7 Turret Press

My Reloading Tool List: What I Use and Recommend


If you’re new to reloading, figuring out which reloading tools you need to get started can be overwhelming. If you’ve been doing it for a while, those tools have probably been replaced with something else.

Mine certainly have. I first pulled the handle on a reloading press around 25 years ago, loading up some 338 Win Mag ammo in my future father-in-law’s basement. A few years later I had my own setup, bought second-hand from a coworker who had lost interest in reloading.

While I was taking inventory to prepare for this article, I realized there wasn’t a single tool I started with still on my bench. I also realized that most of the reloading tools I’m using today have worked very well for a long time. For the most part, I’ve tailored my list of tools around the efficient reloading of long-range precision rifle ammo. My barrel logs show that we fired 5738 rounds in 2018 from four barrels. All of it was loaded with the equipment I’m about to list.

My intent is to share with you what works for me, and in some cases, why it works. I’m not going to tell you what you need to get started, or which tools you could skip altogether. I use all of it, all the time. I recommend everything I’m about to list and provide links to my reviews where applicable. I’m not trying to sell anything here, and I’m not compensated by anybody for recommending it.

Let’s get started with what I consider the most important tools on the reloading bench.

Reloading Full length sizing with a Redding die.

Checking shoulder bump after full length sizing with a Mitutoyo electronic caliper and Sinclair bump gage insert.

Almost every step in the reloading process is based on a measurement of some kind. Because of that, we’ll start with the tools I use to measure stuff every time I’m at the bench.

At the top of the list is a Mitutoyo 6” electronic caliper. The model number is CD-6” CSX. I’ve had mine for close to twenty years, and I consider it an essential reloading tool. I use it every time I set up a die, measure seating depth, or check dimensions on a case. It also gets used around the house and shop, measuring anything that has a thickness, length, or diameter.

I also use a Starrett 6” dial caliper, which I keep in the shop by my lathe. It works well but doesn’t allow me to zero it when using a comparator. A comparator and various inserts are also what I consider essential reloading tools.

I use Sinclair comparator bodies, bullet inserts, and their bump gage inserts. The caliber-specific bullet inserts are used to measure seating depth. They contact a bullet near the junction of the ogive and bearing surface. With two comparators, bullet bearing surfaces can be measured and compared. The Hornady Lock-N-Load OAL Gauge and modified case is my tool of choice for checking and adjusting CBTO measurements. For more on bullet seating depth, check out How to Measure Bullet Seating Depth.

Bump gage inserts are used to measure a case from the head to a specific point on the shoulder. This measurement is used to set up a sizing die to get optimal setback within a chamber’s headspace dimension. Full Length Sizing for Reliable Precision explains the process.

Reloading Measuring Tools

Sinclair Case Neck Sorting Tool and Mitutoyo ball micrometer.

There are other measuring tools on my reloading bench that are nice to have, but probably not essential.

They include a Mitutoyo 0-1” micrometer and ball micrometer. I hardly ever use the standard micrometer, but I frequently measure case neck thicknesses with the ball micrometer.

To quickly check a batch of brass for case neck thickness runout, I use the Sinclair Case Neck Sorting Tool. It uses a caliber-specific pilot to hold a case neck under a dial indicator while you spin it, looking for the high and low spots.

If you feel the need and want to try neck turning, I can recommend the Sinclair NT-1500 kit.

To check concentricity, the Sinclair Concentricity Gauge has always done a fine job for me. Its operation is smoother than tools I’ve tried in the past.

Reloading notes

I keep a lot of notes while I’m reloading, especially during load development for a new barrel. I also like to keep brass segregated and organized 

Permanent load data is kept in composition notebooks, but my temporary notes are scattered all over the place. I keep lots of small spiral bound notebooks and Post-it pads on my benches, as well as in my packs, range box, and drag bags. The data I want to keep is then transferred to the permanent load book. This book also keeps my barrel logs and build specs.

I also record detailed load notes on my targets. These notes are often all I need to duplicate a load. Sometimes I take photos of chronograph data with my phone to record on paper later.

To store and segregate brass by the number of times fired, I use empty Costco cashew containers. The bins I use to hold brass while I’m working on it came from a yard sale and Wal Mart. Nothing fancy, but it all works well.

Redding T-7 Reloading

The Redding T-7 turret holds seven dies in a constant state of readiness.

The reloading press I use most often is the Redding T-7 turret press. I also own an RCBS Rockchucker and a MEC Marksman.

The Redding T-7 is a wonderful piece of equipment. It’s stout, provides great access while seating bullets, and allows seven dies to stay set up at any given time. Although I haven’t, you can buy extra turrets if you need them. A lot of guys get hung up on the fact that the turret deflects a little when sizing cases. There are plenty of hacks to fix this posted on the internet, but I’ve never felt the need to try any of them. I’ve always been able to size cases and seat bullets with little to no runout on the press, so why bother? I’ve used the T-7 to load everything from 10MM pistol ammo, to 338 Edge +P rounds that measure 4.025” COAL. I consider it to be one of my best investments in reloading gear.

For many years before the T-7, I used an RCBS Rockchucker II. I handloaded some of the best ammo I’ve ever shot with this iconic press. The Rockchucker is a classic O-ring press that’s built like a tank and can handle rounds like the 338 Edge +P.

Reloading MEC Marksman

Jake pulling the handle on the MEC Marksman. This press is as smooth as they come.

My newest press is the MEC Marksman. Mayville Engineering Company (MEC) is well known among the scattergun crowd, but they also build a nice metallic reloading press. It’s hands down the smoothest press I’ve ever used, with a ton of leverage and a wide-open work area. With my son, Jake, taking on his own reloading duties, the Marksman is the press I set up for him. Check out this detailed video review of the Marksman for more info.

I use and recommend the Redding Type S FL bushing die for everything they build dies for. I also prefer the Redding Competition seating die for seating bullets.

Other than a custom die set reamed for my 260 Terminator, they’re all I use now.  I’ve consistently found them to be accurate and easy to use. The full-length sizing die flat out works well and offers the flexibility of a bushing for sizing the neck as little as possible. I keep them clean, and always polish the body cavity and expander in the sizing die before the first use. I also install Hornady lock rings on every one of my Redding dies.

I’ve tried the titanium nitride bushings and don’t think they justify the extra cost. All I use are the steel bushings now. For info on how to select bushings, check out Redding Bushing Dies: How to Select the Proper Bushing.

I started using the Redding Competition seating die more for its convenience than any perceived shortcomings from my standard seating dies. The micrometer adjustment is accurate, as long as seating tension isn’t too high, and I’m less likely to get a bullet cocked in the case mouth when I start the round into the die.

In case you’re wondering how I think the Type S FL bushing die stacks up to Redding’s full competition set, check out Redding Reloading Dies: Sizing Them Up.

I use standard shellholders from RCBS and Redding. I tried the Redding Competition Shellholder set twice and found them to be an unnecessary and expensive gimmick. They don’t accomplish anything that can’t be done with a twist of the sizing die.

Some specialty dies I use include ones that only expand necks, and a couple that push out spent primers.

I don’t think I’ve ever loaded a piece of new brass that I didn’t have to expand the neck on first. Whether it’s because the necks are dented or are simply too tight, they’ve all needed attention. I use a Sinclair Expander Die and expander mandrels for this job. The expander mandrels come .001” smaller than the bullet diameter of whatever caliber I’m working on. They can also be used to size up a neck to a different caliber altogether.

For depriming fired cases, I use the RCBS Universal Decapping Die and Sinclair Decapping Die. They both work very well. The Sinclair model comes with pins for small and large flash holes. The RCBS die pins are designed for large flash holes only. I’ve seen reports of guys grinding those pins down for use with small flash hole brass, but I’ve never tried it.

I use the RCBS Automatic Priming Tool for seating primers. This bench-mounted beauty is the cat’s meow for priming large batches of brass quickly.

Reloading RCBS Vibratory Tumbler

The RCBS Vibratory Tumbler with 200 pieces of 260 Remington brass in it.

I can clean small batches of fired brass by hand, but large batches are more easily done with a machine. Before lubing cases for sizing, I run them through one of my vibratory tumblers.

I’m still using a Frankford Arsenal tumbler I bought a couple of decades ago. I don’t remember how much I paid for it, but I’m quite certain it was a good investment. I’ve cleaned tens of thousands of pieces of brass in it without a single problem. To increase capacity, I added an RCBS Vibratory Tumbler. It’s also been trouble-free and holds roughly twice as many cases as the old Frankford Arsenal model. Here’s my video review of that tumbler.

I use untreated corn cob media in both tumblers, with a little polishing additive thrown in when changing out the media. Frankford Arsenal media, which can be bought in bulk or a couple pounds at a time, works just fine.

Hornady One Shot case lube reloading

A batch of 260 Remington cases sprayed with Hornady One Shot case lube.

Whether it’s a single piece of brass or a large batch of cases, I use Hornady One Shot aerosol case lube to size cases. I prefer the small cans over the large ones.

I also keep a container of Imperial Application Media with dry neck lube on the bench. It gets used when all I want to do is expand necks. It sits on top of a tin of Imperial Sizing Die Wax that I don’t use anymore. One Shot works as well and is easier to use.

I use fine steel wool and bronze bore brushes to clean case necks. If I feel the need to uniform primer pockets and deburr flash holes, both of my tools for the job came from Possum Hollow.

RCBS Chargemaster Reloading

The RCBS Chargemaster Lite and Chargemaster 1500 have both worked very well for me.

For speed and ease of use, nothing beats an electronic scale and powder dispenser for high-volume reloading. I use an RCBS Chargemaster 1500 and Chargemaster Lite.

Here’s a comprehensive review I did on the RCBS Chargemaster Lite when it first came out. I get quite a few emails and comments on the video asking if I still like it. Yes, I still like it, and it’s still working perfectly. For most of this year, it’s been our dedicated H4350 dispenser, throwing over 4000 powder charges since the review.

The Chargemaster Lite syncs up nicely with the older RCBS Chargemaster 1500 parked on my other bench. I’ve tested them against each other for consistency and accuracy quite a bit. If you ask me which one to get, I’d say pick one and be happy!

I did spend a lot of years weighing powder charges with an RCBS 10-10 beam scale, dispensed from a Redding 3-BR powder measure. Then I would trickle in the kernels required to hit the exact charge I wanted with an old 338 Win Mag case. It was accurate and effective, but it was slow. I can’t imagine weighing out 400 charges of H4350 every week like that. On the other hand, ball powder like TAC or H335 flows accurately enough from the measure to directly charge cases. For that reason, I keep the old 3-BR on standby.

The electronic scales are also handy for weight-sorting and comparing bullets and cases. My only regret when it comes to electronic scales and dispensers is that I didn’t get them sooner.

I use 50 round poly Sinclair loading blocks to hold cases ready for powder. To pour charges of powder into them, the aluminum powder funnels from Precision Hardcore Gear are the best I’ve used.

Reloading Process

Sinclair loading blocks holding a bunch of finished reloads.

If you fire and size a case enough times, you’ll eventually have to trim its overall length. Trimming brass is one of the least enjoyable steps in the reloading process. I could use an improvement in my gear, but it does the job for now.

I’ve used a few different case trimmers over the last 20 years. The first one was a Forster collet trimmer. I once trimmed 8000 pieces of 223 Remington brass with it over the course of a winter. It was dumb, and I’ll never do it again.

Now I’m using an L.E. Wilson trimmer and a couple of Little Crow Gunworks WFTs (World’s Finest Trimmer). The trimmer is upgraded and sold by Sinclair as the Wilson/Sinclair Ultimate Trimmer. It’s truly a fine tool that cuts necks perfectly square to the case body. It also accepts a variety of cutting tools that ream necks, deburr, and chamfer case necks.

I use the Little Crow Gunworks WFTs to trim 260 Terminator and 260 Remington cases. Chucked up in my lathe and spinning at 200 rpm, they make short work of a pile of cases.

Reloading trimming brass

Trimming brass with a Little Crow Gunworks WFT spinning in my lathe.

To deburr and chamfer case mouths after trimming, I’ve been using the RCBS Brass Boss. Before the Brass Boss landed on my bench, I used standard chamfer/deburring tools from RCBS and Wilson, as well as a Sinclair VLD chamfering tool. I don’t think it makes a difference which angle you chamfer the inside of the neck to, but the VLD cut seems to be easier to make.

On my wish list is the Giraud trimmer, which trims, chamfers, and deburrs all in one step. I should have bought one the winter I trimmed the 8000 pieces of 223!

Occasionally, I get asked to recommend reloading books and videos. It seems odd considering the amount of information available for free online. Having said that, my reloading education began before the internet, so I do have a small library on the shelf.

My first pick would be current edition reloading manuals from several different bullet manufacturers. I don’t think it matters which manufacturers but pick more than one. I don’t think the load data is better than what can be found online. In fact, I think it’s the other way around!

What I like about them is what’s in their front sections, before the load data. There is a wealth of information in these books, covering just about every step of the reloading process. The cartridge descriptions and drawings are great references as well. My favorites are Any Shot You Want, by A-Square, and the reloading manuals published by Hornady and Sierra.

Precision Shooting magazine articles are a good resource if you can find them. Glen Zediker’s books on reloading and Highpower competition are interesting, too.

My friend, Shawn Carlock of Defensive Edge produced some DVDs on reloading and long range shooting several years ago. They are a great resource from a guy with a ton of experience.

Bench-Source Annealer

I anneal brass with a Bench-Source machine right before sizing.

The final two pieces of reloading gear I’ll mention are my Bench-Source case annealer and MagnetoSpeed chronograph.

I’ve tried annealing brass through various methods with mixed results. Investing in the Bench-Source made the mixed results disappear, and efficiency shot through the roof. Depending on the brand and condition of the brass you’re using, you may never need to anneal. If you do, invest in a machine and learn how to use it. Here’s a video on how I use mine.

Muzzle velocity is as important to a reloader as group size. I tried a cheap one 20 years ago, but quickly returned it after the first range trip. I did without one until I could afford an Oehler 35. The Oehler is a great chronograph, but it’s collecting dust in the shop now.

The V2 MagnetoSpeed is as accurate as the Oehler, and can be used in all conditions from any position. I had to replace the bayonet strap this summer, but other than that, it’s been solid despite years of heavy use.

After making two more passes through the gun room, I think this list is as complete as I can make it. You’ll probably recognize the tools that get used the most if you watch my reloading videos. If you haven’t checked out our YouTube channel, please be sure to do so and subscribe.

Share This:


As an Idaho native, avid hunter, and long range shooter, Sam has written numerous articles and gear reviews for various online publications. Specializing in long range hunting in the mountains of northern Idaho, Sam founded Panhandle Precision as a way to continue sharing his passions.

You may also like


  • Todd B.
    December 31, 2018 at 17:25

    Thanks for going over the equipment you use. How often do you annealing your competition brass?

    • Sam
      Sam Millard
      January 1, 2019 at 09:43

      I don’t think it needed it, but I annealed my Lapua 260 Rem brass after every firing last year. The machine makes it easy enough to do that, and it doesn’t hurt anything.

      • Bryan Bingham
        August 17, 2020 at 14:14

        Where in your work flow does the annealing step fit.?Just trying to get a handle on this step.

  • Randy C
    December 31, 2018 at 17:50

    Happy New year Sam
    Thanks for taking the time to do the videos.
    We look forward to next years videos
    You Never disappoint use and we are always looking for your advice and new products.
    I have bought most everything you use x2
    Thanks again Randy & Brenda

  • Larry
    December 31, 2018 at 19:14

    Best to your family in 2019
    Kind regards,

  • Todd B
    January 1, 2019 at 07:46

    I feel the same way you do about the bushings. I like to use the non-coated steel ones and avoid the extra expense.
    I recently needed to buy a couple and was dreading the shipping charges. E. Arthur Brown shipped them to me for $4. It’s nice when a company passes along a less expensive option to us.

  • Bill Tincup
    January 1, 2019 at 08:17

    Great write up Sam. When referencing your redding type s sizing dies you said “I keep them clean, and always polish the body cavity and expander in the sizing die before the first use”. What do you use and what is your process for cleaning and polishing them? Also, on this die, are you using an expander?
    Thanks again Sam, great article!

    • Sam
      Sam Millard
      January 1, 2019 at 09:32

      I don’t normally use an expander when sizing with a bushing die, but barricade practice over a concrete apron made it necessary.

      I use JB Bore Brite to polish all kinds of stuff, but I suppose any metal polishing compound would work. I spin the dies in my lathe, and work a patch over a wooden dowel back and forth a few times. It doesn’t take much. I used a drill with a patch-covered bore brush before I had the lathe. That works just as well.

  • John McGeehan
    January 1, 2019 at 08:26

    Hi Sam,
    Great summary and thank you for taking the time to put this together. I love your style and to the point views…extremely helpful and unbiased.

    Was curious what you use to clean and polish your dies? And, similar to another comment…do you use the expander ball on full length bushing dies? It seems that there are 1,000,000 opinions on this practice.

    • Sam
      Sam Millard
      January 1, 2019 at 09:33

      I don’t normally use an expander when sizing with a bushing die, but barricade practice over a concrete apron made it necessary.

      I use JB Bore Brite to polish all kinds of stuff, but I suppose any metal polishing compound would work. I spin the dies in my lathe, and work a patch over a wooden dowel back and forth a few times. It doesn’t take much. I used a drill with a patch-covered bore brush before I had the lathe. That works just as well.

      • John
        January 1, 2019 at 16:12

        Thank you Sam.

      • Marcus Wehmeyer
        March 23, 2019 at 19:48

        Hey Sam,
        Wondering what your thoughts are to running without the expander on resize but then running the case into a mandrel? I started doing this a year ago after reading about it on the 6.5 guys page and it seemed to make a big difference on keeping neck tension uniform and generally improving SD and ES. At that point I don’t think you need to risk the possible run-out issues caused by the expander, I have pulled mine out and like you don’t have perfect case necks coming back from the range.

        • Sam
          Sam Millard
          March 24, 2019 at 12:25

          It might make a difference in some instances, but I’ve never seen it. I once sized 40 twice-fired 260 Remington cases using four methods, then fired four 10-shot groups to compare performance. I used a standard Redding FL die, a Redding Type S bushing die with no expander, the same die with an expander, and the same die with no expander, with a pass over a mandrel after sizing. There was no measurable difference in accuracy, MV, or ES.

  • Shawn F
    January 1, 2019 at 09:10

    Your videos and articles are my reloading bible Many thanks andHappy New Year.

    • Steve
      October 28, 2019 at 11:04

      Sam, I thoroughly enjoy your channel and you inspired me to have a .260 remington built. I went with the Redding type-s competition dies and was wondering if you neck turn the bushing sized brass to remove the donut left over from resizing?

      • Sam
        Sam Millard
        October 28, 2019 at 14:14

        I don’t neck turn anything. We’re on the 10th firing of Alpha 260 Rem brass in Jake’s comp rifle. It is still firing 10-shot strings with E.S. in the teens. All I use are Redding Type S dies.

        • Steve
          October 28, 2019 at 14:46

          Outstanding. Thank you for the prompt reply. I waited for alpha 260 brass for a few months and ended up giving up and going with Lapua. I will switch to Alpha when I rebarrel. Thanks again Sam. Those are some impressive kids you’re raising. The footage of them shooting is awesome.

  • Don Noble
    January 1, 2019 at 09:58

    Happy New Year Sam to you and yours. Really enjoy your style while passing you knowledge and experiences , have a great 2019.

    • Sam
      Sam Millard
      January 1, 2019 at 11:12

      Thanks! You, too.

      • Mark Wright
        January 1, 2019 at 12:24

        Happy New Year Sam to you and your family all the way from New Zealand! Firstly I can’t thank you enough for keeping it real and uncomplicated yet very educational and the best possible advice one can get on the net!
        I have been dabbling in reloading for long range shooting/hunting for the past twenty years here in NZ and have tried all sorts of gear along the way and own far more than I need.

        The best way to put it is that I get a warm fuzzy feeling reading your articles knowing that you know what works and you explain in simple layman’s terms how to use the gear in concern, I wish I had someone like you back then!!! Thank you Sam, my boys enjoy watching little Jake having a blast with his dad..

        Take care and all the best for 2019


  • Casey Britton
    January 1, 2019 at 17:13

    Excellent content. Thank you for sharing!

  • Brenden anderson
    January 1, 2019 at 19:45

    Awesome article Sam. I consider your info very valuable. Mainly because of the practical, no BS approach to the sport. The whole long range world is so watered down with wannabes and posers selling cool looking crap. Keep it real. I appreciate your approach and guidance.

    Happy new year.

    Brenden Anderson
    Jaffray BC

  • Charles L Gauldin
    January 2, 2019 at 19:49

    Thanks so much for not only this excellent tid bit , but for all of the information on reloading and long range rifle shooting. I am new to the reloading game, started back in 2012, and I am like a sponge when it comes to absorbing new material. I love your straight forawd , cut the bull no nonsense approach. I just purchased a 22 nosler, M48 Liberty a few months back, mounted a Nightforce NXS on top of it, and can’t wait to get some rounds through it. Do you happen to know of anybody or know of any article with some nice loads for the bolt action 22 nosler? Thanks again for all of your help sir.
    Happy New Year to you and your family!

    • Sam
      Sam Millard
      January 2, 2019 at 20:24

      Sorry. I don’t have, or know of any info on the 22 Nosler. Happy New Year to you, too!

  • Michael Hansen
    January 12, 2019 at 17:41

    Hi Sam,
    Thank you for all of your educational videos and articles. I’m new to reloading and long range shooting. I’ve watched a lot of videos and read a lot of articles, but I always come back to your advice and suggestions. Thank you for all of your noledge and helpful insights.

  • Jason Neves
    May 15, 2020 at 23:21

    Thank you Sam. Please keep it up. Love the YouTube channel. If you haven’t checked it out yet, go Sam has great info there!

  • David E Edwards
    August 31, 2020 at 06:52

    Since you have been shooting a 260 Rem I bought one too. Mine is the Remington PCR. Just getting my reloading stating and really enjoy your articles on how to do the best job.
    Now my question is using the Hornady Lock-n-load OAL gauge my OAL is 2.9230 inches using Hornady ELD match 140 gr. bullets and my distance to the lands is 2.2680. My 5 shot magazine will allow a length of only 2.810. That is going to leave a lot of jump to the lands, maybe too much unless I make this rifle a single shooter.
    Any ideas?
    Many thanks for your information.

  • Nolan
    September 11, 2020 at 13:57

    Well, we can agree on one thing for sure. And, there are more!
    I really like the One Shot case lube and have given up all of the others I have used.
    I also have the RCBS Chargemaster 1500, which speeds up reloading considerably.
    However, in most instances, I seat my rifle bullets using a L.E. Wilson Stainless Steel Chamber Type Bullet Seater.
    Good job! Good article. However, if I pay several hundred dollars for a press, I’ll get the Dillion XL-750 I’ve been watching for years and years (Grin). I began reloading in 1963 with a progressive self-indexing shotshell reloader.

  • bhl
    October 12, 2020 at 04:48

    How’s that RCBS tumbler holding up? Looks pretty scarce online these day. I went with a Raytech 23012R. So many negative reviews for vibe tumblers sold by reloading companies. Hope this one works as I plan on using it for machined parts as well.

  • Slaw
    November 15, 2020 at 01:43

    Hi Sam
    Can I use Reeding Competition Bushing Neck Sizind Die to bump shoulders, instead Redding Type S FL bushing You recommend ?

    • Sam
      Sam Millard
      November 16, 2020 at 06:17

      No. That die only sizes the neck. If you already have it, you can buy a body die to FL size and set shoulders back.

  • Jeff
    January 13, 2021 at 19:50

    Thank you for all the videos and articles written. I plan on reloading sometime in the future and all the material you have put out there is just an incredible amount detailed and quality info. that I was searching for. Thanks and God bless. A+++

  • Daniel
    February 17, 2021 at 12:43

    I know this is small potatoes but would you mind providing the dimensions on the small plastic baskets you use? I found some but there are a ton of different sizes. That’s exactly what I’ve been looking for. Thank you for all the work you put in to help us out!

  • Marcus Elliott
    April 11, 2021 at 15:42

    Hey Sam, you have some great content and have helped out a lot for me. I am curious of what paper targets you are using. I know there are a lot of paper targets out there but do you print your own or do you buy them?

    • Sam
      Sam Millard
      April 12, 2021 at 09:01

      I buy the Leupold targets made by Champion.

  • Ron Richman
    December 20, 2021 at 18:25

    Thanks Sam for sharing your loading equipment list . I have really enjoying your YouTube videos. You have opened my eyes to many new techniques and equipment. Please keep up the videos. I just ordered my first set of Redding competition dies with S type bushings for my old Sako L579 22-250 . I’m wanting to try my hand at some bench shooting. Thanks again

  • Clay Wynn
    October 16, 2022 at 14:30

    You are a Rem 260 reloader so I ask this question. First the price of Rem 260 brass has gone off scale ($1.20 per case here in U.S.)
    So can I use my 1X .243 (6.0mm) cases and just expand the neck to take the 6.5mm bullet and call it good. I know the proof is in the firing, but thought I would check with someone that may have done it before. Essentially I lube and run the .243 1X case through my RCBS Rem 260 full length sizer, then case trim the excess length if any.

    • Sam
      Sam Millard
      December 1, 2022 at 06:01

      You can neck up 243 to 260, but I’ve never done it.

      • Clay Wynn
        June 17, 2023 at 07:09

        Great work on explaining and teaching the art of setting ogive off of the lands.
        Now, what about Run Out? You do not say much about long. axis of bullet not being coincident with long axis of case in the final cartridge assembly.
        I roll my case (actually full cartridge assembly) on two diameters, one near the case head and one on the case shoulder or “conical” portion. The case is restrained from moving back and forth on the roll axis. The radial measurement pickup point is at or near the bullet ogive diameter(s). I typically get 0.002 to 0.007 total indicated run-out.(T.I.R.). What have you found to be acceptable run-out (T.I.R.) on your cartridge assemblies for the Rem260.
        8 B MR


Subscribe to Panhandle Precision

Enter your email address to subscribe to Panhandle Precision and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 2,603 other subscribers

About Panhandle Precision

About Panhandle Precision